Roam Around the World: March 2010

Paris never ceases to amaze: the sights, smells and of course joie-de-vivre of one of the most romantic cities on the planet. Having spent a considerable amount of time there, it felt most appropriate to pay homage to my adopted "hometown" in this, the first of many travel blogs from Roam Around the World.

First stop, a fantastic place to stay...

Hotel Bourg-Tibourg

Scented candles and soft lighting announce designer Jacques Garcia's mix of haremlike romance and Gothic contemplation located on a quiet side street in the center of the city. This is one of those rare, special things: a hotel that thinks it’s a secret den, a lovers’ hideaway, a seductive place to stay in one of the most beautiful corners of Paris. The Marais is a hidden quarter, very central (think 15 minutes on foot to either Notre Dame or the Louvre), which brings to mind something of a village in the city much as Trastevere is to Rome. A trendy area, it is still predominantly residential so the cafés, theatres and restaurants remain, like the Hotel Bourg Tibourg, smaller, more personal and ultimately more satisfying.

http://www.bourgtibourg.com/
19, rue du Bourg-Tibourg
75004 Paris
+33 1 42 78 47 39

Next up: a natural wine bar...

Aux Tonneaux des Halles

A wine bar of the day is also located in the center of Paris, in a narrow street which is not really on the tourist beaten path, the rue Montorgueil. Owner Patrick Fabre has made his place to be what is considered one of the top wine spots in Paris. The name of the bar means literally "the casks of the wholesale food market", and this huge market (Les Halles) which has moved away since then, was a magnet for thousands of professional buyers every day until the 1960s', and dozens of bars and brasseries catered to the needs of these hundreds of visitors, sometimes around the clock. The buyers and sellers were demanding experts and the venues often offered superior-quality food and drink. BTW, this food market moved to Rungis in the south of Paris, and in spite of the warehouse landscape, it is again home to some of the best restaurants of the region. The market is gone, but the Tonneaux des Halles keeps living, with renewed spirit and a new clientele.

Aux Tonneaux des Halles
28, rue Montorgueil
75001 Paris
01 42 33 36 19
http://www.morethanorganic.com/natural-wine-restaurants/aux-tonneux-des-halles

A glass or two of wine, a siesta back at the hotel and now it's time for dinner.

Le 404!

For Paris' self-styled cognoscenti, true African desert decadence unfurls on the slender rue des Gravilliers.
The restaurant is packed! In a smallish room that should feel claustrophobic with its snug tables, it defies its limited space with high ceilings and a lantern-lit staircase leading to a mezzanine where a more private dining experience is permitted. Arabian decor adds to the warm and cozy feel - ‘familial’ as the sign states outside.
The ambiance is enhanced by the chanting tones of an African beat and clapping begins. A tray of Moroccan pastries lit with candles is taken to a blushing young man in the corner while nearly 50 strangers sing ‘Happy Birthday’. It's hard not to feel happy to be here, and we haven’t even eaten yet.
With all the other senses satisfied, it was time to move on to taste. The selection of traditional tagine casseroles and couscous dishes includes both tantalizing meat and vegetarian options. Seeing the size of the stews at our neighboring table, we settle for the mojitos and olives as a starter and order two tagines for the main meal; braised duck and pear as well as a lamb, sultana and prune speciality.
An inexpensive rose wine is chosen from the modest-priced list of Algerian selections, a light-bodied variety to complement the potency of the stews. The meals are as hearty and intense as their scent promised, like velvet in your mouth with the odd crunch of cashew and a garlicky edge, holding an undeniable Moroccan tang and piquancy.
We finish the meal with some small house dessert pastries and smoky, sweet Moroccan tea, poured dramatically from above by the smiling, Algerian waiter. A perfect ending to the journey of a Berber-style ‘degustation’ in Paris. If you're feeling funky enough after dinner, try 404's younger sister club next door, Andy Wahloo, for a chic nightcap. Encroyable!!!

Le 404

69, rue des Gravilliers
75003 Paris
01 42 74 57 81 *reserve one week in advance*

Andy Wahloo

67, rue des Gravilliers
75003 Paris
01 42 71 20 38
http://www.hipguide.com/paris/bars/1078905466.shtml

Other restaurant options:

Chez Julien - Gastro Chic
This gorgeous, mirrored jewel box of a restaurant, with a private upstairs dining room that’s often reserved by a hip crowd during Paris fashion week, was established in 1780. It was revamped in 2007 by the Costes Brothers!

1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe
75004 Paris
01 42 78 31 64

L'As du Falafel

34, rue des Rosiers
75004 Paris
The best falafel anywhere! Join the crowd clamoring at the window while they prepare your falafel with lightning-fast speed. Certainly a dive, and definitely a must. Closed Friday evening and Saturday.

Ma Bourgogne
19, place des Vosges
75004 Paris
01 42 78 44 64
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day, this is a great spot to sit under the arches of the gorgeous Place des Vosges. Standard French fare (the fixed menu is your best bet), generous salads, and Berthillon ice cream. No reservations or credit cards.

Also...

Crêperie des Arts
56, rue St André des Arts
75006 Paris

L'Avenue

41, avenue Montaigne
75008 Paris

La Mezzanine de l'Alcazar (tres chic!)

62, rue Mazarine
75006 Paris
http://www.alcazar.fr

café, chocolat et glaces!

Ladurée (Macarons!)
21, rue Bonaparte
75006 Paris

Angelina's (chocolat chaud!)
226, rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris
the best hot chocolate in the world!!!

Jacques Genin
133, rue de Turenne
75003 Paris

Parisian pastry chef and food stylist Jacques Genin infuses his bonbons with the essence of seasonal fruits in Marie Antoinette's former 17th century orangerie.

Millefeuille @ Jacques Genin!!!

Jacques Genin dans le Marais!

Berthillon

29-31 rue St. Louis en l'ile
75004 Paris

Yes, everyone knows about it! But it still does not stop Berthillon from being a destination for ice cream in Paris (or Europe). Of course Rome has its gelato but Berthillon is ice cream! From Agenaise(prune & armagnac) to Marron Glace (chestnuts soaked in rum) or Chocolat Noir (dark chocolate), Berthillion is an orgasm of flavor for your palate. Don't miss it! Closed Monday and Tuesday.
http://www.berthillon.fr/

The best breakfast & brunch (and people watching)!

Café Beaubourg at the Centre Georges Pompidou!

Interior:

Ultra stylish café-bar-restaurant opposite the Centre Pompidou, the Beaubourg oozes chic sophistication. You pass through plush red velvet drapes into a lavish room of gorgeous banquettes, bookcases and bare concrete walls. Waiters in Zen-like black suits move around as if they've been plucked out of an Amman Resort and predictably most of them turn out to be more attractive than the regulars. The clientele are a dashing mix of art-loving tourists and trendy young locals who come for the eye-catching views, fruity cocktails and hip Parisian lounge music a la Hotel Costes. Seat yourself on the terrace for best views and watch Paris live before your eyes!
43, rue St. Merri
75004 Paris

Museums and Squares

Musée D'Orsay
1, rue de la Légion d'Honneur
75007 Paris
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html

A former train station, the Musée D'Orsay was converted to a museum and opened in 1986. Here some of the best works of French Impressionists are displayed including Cezanne, Monet, Degas, Renoir, Courbet, Gaugin and Bonnard amidst many others. One of the best and most architecturally striking museums in Paris.

L'Institut du Monde Arabe

1, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard
75005 Paris
http://imarabe.org
Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, it is one of the Grands Projets encouraged by the French President during the 1980s and is an urban scheme of great character. It houses a Franco-Arabian 'World' Institute representing 19 countries. Its purpose is to foster knowledge of Arab world culture by the exchange of information on the arts, sciences and modern technologies A must visit for those interested in Arab art & culture.

Musée Carnavalet

23 , rue de Sevigne

75003 Paris

http://carnavalet.paris.fr

A museum dedicated to the history of Paris. What could be more fascinating than to learn everything you want to know about the city you've come to love? In le Marais just off the rue des Francs-Bourgeois.